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This inline switch is great when you just want a simple on/off toggle switch that's already enclosed. Inside is a simple rocker switch with solder terminals with crimp strain relief. Attach some wires, solder them in place, and press-fit the enclosure together and you have a clean-looking switch.
- SPST
- 6A, 250VAC
- Press-Fit Enclosure
- Clicky Sound
Lamp Switch - SPST (inline) Product Help and Resources
Button and Switch Basics
May 7, 2013
A tutorial on electronics' most overlooked and underappreciated component: the switch! Here we explain the difference between momentary and maintained switches and what all those acronyms (NO, NC, SPDT, SPST, ...) stand for.
Core Skill: Electrical Prototyping
If it requires power, you need to know how much, what all the pins do, and how to hook it up. You may need to reference datasheets, schematics, and know the ins and outs of electronics.
Skill Level: Rookie - You may be required to know a bit more about the component, such as orientation, or how to hook it up, in addition to power requirements. You will need to understand polarized components.
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You most definitely (as Kamiquasi first said) have a channel under the switch to run the unswitched conductor. I own at least a dozen IKEA JANSJO LED lamp($10). 'A very nice work light with a totally flaky switch. I have already fixed 5 with my first batch of switches and I'm here ordering 10 more. 'Works like a hose! You must smash the IKEA switch to remove it, cut about an eighth inch off of each switched wire, strip back a little bit and crimp them onto switch terminals. Finis! The switch has a nice feel and a design which should keep the contacts much cleaner than the original switch did. The switch looks like it will fit on standard US lamp zip cord, but I haven't tried it. The (low voltage) zip cords on the IKEA lights are a bit smaller and an easy fit.
So, you would split your zip cord conductors by pushing a knife blade in between them at the location where you want the switch. Separate them only enough to cut exactly one inch out of either one of the conductors, leaving two short split wires a bit over one half inch long. Strip one half inch of insulation off of each wire, leaving about one eighth inch of split apart insulation on each wire. Twist both bare wires very tightly to hold all the fine wires together. Lay one stripped wire into a crimp and fold three sharp fingers down on it with slip joint pliers (set close). Then fold down the other 3 fingers on the other side of the crimp. Run the uncut wire underneath the switch. Crimp the other stripped wire. Solder two connections quickly enough to avoid melting the plastic. On the low voltage lights, I just squeezed the crimps tightly and did not bother with soldering as they hold very firmly and the case halves clamp the zip cord when together. Assemble the case halves around the switch and squeeze the case together, alternating between the two ends with your slip joint pliers (set wide) until the case is closed fully. Case closed!
I like the way these switches work. And this is a reasonable price for an in-line switch. And, no, I don't work for Sparkfun!
Hi every one :)
Can I use this on (https://www.adafruit.com/products/352)? I was wondering if I could mount on the 240VAC side.
TNX.
I'm very happy the features section includes "clicky sound". That is absolutely the best thing ever!
P.S. I do believe the "clicky sound" is a feature.
Not everybody knows the size of a quarter though
Just in case this impacts anyone, the switch I received was all black in finish, not the silver pictured. Didn't impact me at all (the switch went under a cabinet). Works great and simple assembly.
This switch looks great but one question i have, it appears to only have a single pole. How can i use it as a power switch if i can't have the power and ground wire running through it? Is there room inside to have the ground wire running through it but just sitting next to the switch itself inside the housing?
There should be room inside that the neutral wire would run through. It's difficult to tell from the product shots, but I think it would run underneath the switch (note the raised position of the solder terminals).
So you attach the main power leads to the leads on the switch & just attach the grnd wires to extra cables, is that what you are saying? 'Cause my wife needs a switch replaced on her fave lamp & this would be perfect.
Sorry, no - what I meant was that the neutral would go underneath the actual switch - inside the enclosing body. E.g. example Might want to double-check with SFE (call/mail), but that's the only place I see the neutral going :) Edit: re-instated the image link :)
Actually your drawing is what I was meaning, thank you very much for the help.
No. this is incorrect. The wire cannot be run underneath the switch. Check the video above, there is not enough room to run anything underneath the switch, and it rests on the bottom of the case.
the switch is intended for a single wire, not multiples.
Thanks for the clarification, Robert. It still looks like there should be a channel, from the photos, but I guess that may be blocked further inward and out of view of the photos. A single wire in-line switch for lamps is certainly... uncommon. The typical in-line lamp switch sits right between the wall outlet and the lamp itself, with the cable run into the switch and only 1 wire (the phase) terminated at the switch, and the other (neutral) running through the body, usually in a separate channel, uninterrupted.
In the ones that I bought there is indeed a channel underneath the switch that's just about perfect for typical lamp wire size; the channel dimensions are 0.192" by 0.100".
I dunno about the 6A/250V rating though; the rating stamped on the bottom is "2⊗2/250~", whatever that means.
And in the product picture it looks like it might be silver; it's not. It's a matte black finish.
Yeah, I thought it a bit odd if it really were single wire. Maybe Robert can have another look, for the amp rating as well :)