The TAZ 5 3D printer from LulzBot represents the latest evolution in high performance desktop 3D printing technology. This 3D printer provides you with a wide range of features that facilitate more consistent, higher quality prints than ever. The TAZ 5 features tetherless printing through an SD card with a versatile, multi-functional graphic LCD controller and boasts a spacious 11.7in x 10.8in x 9.8in print area with a controllable heat bed that can print large items, or many small items.
What can you print with? LulzBot users have many filaments options beyond common plastics like PLA, ABS, and HIPS. The TAZ 5 features the LulzBot Hexagon hot end, which can heat up to 300°C (572°F). Now, the TAZ is capable of printing in even more materials than ever! Exotic filament options like the rubber-like (NinjaFlex) materials can also be used with this 3D printer with the proper tool head.
All LulzBot products are Libre/Open Source Hardware, meaning you can adopt the latest and greatest technology being developed across the 3D printing market. From experimental filament materials and the modeling software of your choice, to new accessories like hot ends and print surfaces—experience the joy of user freedom! LulzBot's Libre/Open philosophy empowers you to download/print upgrades and replacement parts for your 3D printer, and make whatever modifications you want!
Note: Printing NinjaFlex, and other flexible filaments requires an optional print head found at the LulzBot website, here. Additionally, 3D printing with carbon fiber filaments is not recommended at this time because carbon fiber filaments can degrade both the nozzle and hot end of the LulzBot TAZ 5 Tool Head.
Whether it's for assembling a kit, hacking an enclosure, or creating your own parts; the DIY skill is all about knowing how to use tools and the techniques associated with them.
Skill Level: Rookie - Basic hand tools are required and instructions will allow more freedom. You may need to make your own decisions on design. If sewing is required, it will be free-form.
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If a board needs code or communicates somehow, you're going to need to know how to program or interface with it. The programming skill is all about communication and code.
Skill Level: Competent - The toolchain for programming is a bit more complex and will examples may not be explicitly provided for you. You will be required to have a fundamental knowledge of programming and be required to provide your own code. You may need to modify existing libraries or code to work with your specific hardware. Sensor and hardware interfaces will be SPI or I2C.
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If it requires power, you need to know how much, what all the pins do, and how to hook it up. You may need to reference datasheets, schematics, and know the ins and outs of electronics.
Skill Level: Rookie - You may be required to know a bit more about the component, such as orientation, or how to hook it up, in addition to power requirements. You will need to understand polarized components.
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We welcome your comments and suggestions below. However, if you are looking for solutions to technical questions please see our Technical Assistance page.
Based on 7 ratings:
1 of 1 found this helpful:
Was very easy to setup. I have already made a number of components generated with Solid Works software. Well worth the investment
Love the open source environment and flexibility of what this machine can do! This is a big step up from the Afinia I had been using. Afinia was a great learning machine, but this is prime time. The head and bed get up to operating temperature much faster than I expected. Good deal for the price. Too bad I can't get the flexyhead from SparkFun :(
Very well packaged. Easy to get set up and get going. This is my first printer and it meets/exceeds all my expectations. SparkFun's endorsement of this printer made the decision to purchase easier for me and I would definately recommend this printer to others looking for a high quality, open-source printer.
I got this printer for Christmas, so I am brand new to 3D printing. I have found this printer to be very easy to setup & a snap to calibrate/level. With proper settings for the particular filament material being used (temperatures & most importantly, the measured diameter of the filament), prints come out very sharp & precise, even in "fast" mode. I would strongly suggest getting a digital caliper to use for measuring the actual diameter of the filament prior to use (some materials absorb water from the atmosphere, so the actual diameter can vary, depending upon storage and/or extended exposure to the air).
I would highly recommend this product for anyone considering its purchase, even for brand new beginners like myself. I predict that you will be very pleased with the output results.
PROs: - 10" x 11" x 12" print area - .05mm / .002" print resolution - fast to heat both the head & the bed - excellent temperature regulation - fast & easy to calibration/level
CONs: - nothing really to complain about !!
MJC
The printer is good but I have a couple of problems: 1- the filament nozzle supply under certain conditions will not feed 2- the printing stops for lage samples , I use pronterface.
This is our second TAZ5, and it continues to impress. Very solid build quality, and easy to set up to get consistent prints. The print volume is very large, and the printer can be run at higher print speeds to reduce print times across the entire volume. We also add the dual extruder upgrade to our printers, and it is a worthwhile addition if you use alternate materials for supports.
Overall, this is the best printer we've used, and we're very happy with the TAZ.
The (optional) print head (Flexystruder Tool Head) recommended for printing flexible filaments that you link to in the notes has been retired. Is there another option you carry at this time ?
3D printed parts in a $2200 printer? Even my $1,300 flashforge had injection molded parts.
Nice thing is, if one of those parts breaks (I have a TAZ4 - only part I've had break was my own fault), you can just print up another one.
There's only a couple of 3d printed parts on the TAZ4 that I can think of that are truly printer-breaking - the two extruder drive gears, and the X-axis smooth rod/stepper holders. That x-axis part is solid as hell, you're only going to break it if you drop your printer (and you have bigger problems if that happens). The gears... just print a couple extra first thing and you're fine. When one of my extruder gears 'broke' (some of the teeth came off) it still worked quite well enough for me to print a replacement one.
Looks like Lulzbot has standardized on the Hexagon hot end.