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Fairy Lights - Addressable RGB (5m)

Affectionately dubbed "Fairy Lights" for their similar appearance, these addressable RGB LED string lights are a great way to light up any project with no soldering required. The insulated strings come in 5m lengths with one RGB LED every 5cm for a total of 100 LEDs. These LEDs have an IP65 waterproof rating to protect your LEDs.

The string of lights terminate on either side with a locking 3-pin JST connector, one male and one female. The wiring and pinout is listed below.

  • Red Stripe = 5V
  • "White" (Middle) = DAT
  • "White" (The Other Side) = GND (wire appears to be connected closest to the LED's dotted polarity marker side)
  • Color: RGB
  • LED Quantity: 100
  • Operating Voltage: 5 VDC
  • Control IC: WS2812
  • Light Spacing: 50mm
  • String Length: 5m
  • Wire Color: Silver
  • IP Rating: IP65

Fairy Lights - Addressable RGB (5m) Product Help and Resources

WS2812 Breakout Hookup Guide

July 24, 2013

How to create a pixel string with the WS2812 and WS2812B addressable LEDs!

Addressable LED Strip Hookup Guide

November 23, 2016

Add blinking lights to any holiday decoration with our Holiday Lights Kit using WS2812-based addressable LEDs!

WS2812-Based Protocol

Our catalog has the red/green/yellow wire JSM-SM pair [ CAB-14575 ] to mate with the connectors on the Fairy Lights. The bag that holds it has information about the wiring and pinout.

  • Red Stripe = 5V
  • "White" (Middle) = DAT
  • "White" (The Other Side) = GND (wire appears to be connected closest to the LED's dotted polarity marker side)

The "male" housing receptacle with (female pin sockets) like the one shown below is the DIN side. The datasheet indicated that the LEDs communicated with "SPI". We tested the LEDs and it uses the WS2812-based protocol. You could use the Neopixel or FastLED library to control the LEDs.

"Male" Housing Receptacle with female sockets


Core Skill: Programming

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Core Skill: Electrical Prototyping

If it requires power, you need to know how much, what all the pins do, and how to hook it up. You may need to reference datasheets, schematics, and know the ins and outs of electronics.

2 Electrical Prototyping

Skill Level: Rookie - You may be required to know a bit more about the component, such as orientation, or how to hook it up, in addition to power requirements. You will need to understand polarized components.
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Comments

Looking for answers to technical questions?

We welcome your comments and suggestions below. However, if you are looking for solutions to technical questions please see our Technical Assistance page.

  • Member #521511 / about 4 years ago * / 2

    The 09-Mar-2021 batch is wired opposite. Socket (male housing) is input.... Blue = 5V, Middle = DAT, End = GND.

  • Member #815726 / about 3 years ago / 1

    My batch, 22-Apr-2021 is also backwards with socket being input end. Some info on power consumption: with all LEDs off, my string draws 41.8 mA for all 100 "pixels." I assume this is the draw of the controller chip in each pixel. It appears that each LED full on draws about 4.25 mA. So a pixel in "white mode" with RGB all full on is about 12.75 mA. At 5 volts that is about 0.064 W which is close to what the spec sheet says, 0.07 W. This was a pretty quick test but at least it gives you some idea of the order of magnitude. Also the order of the colors seems to be RGB for when you set up the protocol.

  • Member #440096 / about 4 years ago / 1

    The wiring on the new batch seems off. Only 2 of 3 chains worked. The female end has a blue strip (no red one) and they seem to be in backwards in the connector. I had to put jumper wires in to daisy chain with the new ones with my old strand...

  • Member #17538 / about 4 years ago / 1

    do you have a part number for the connector?

    • santaimpersonator / about 4 years ago / 2

      Unfortunately, that information isn't readily available from the manufacturer.

      I could possibly this LED connector; however, with the COVID restrictions in place, I can't easily verify that for you.

    • I have not seen a clear, sheathed JST-SM connector before. However, our catalog has the red/green/yellow wire JSM-SM pair [ CAB-14575 ] as "Santa Claus Impersonator" explained. I was able to get a hold of the LEDs and the bag that holds it has information about the wiring.

      • Red = 5V
      • "White" (Middle) = DAT
      • "White" (The Other Side) = GND (wire appears to be connected closest to the LED's dotted polarity marker side)

      The "male" housing receptacle with (female pin sockets) like the one shown below is the DIN side. I tested it using the FastLED library and these seem to be using the WS2812-like protocol.

      "Male" Housing Receptacle with female sockets

  • Member #17538 / about 4 years ago / 1

    will that thin wire really hold with 6 amperes (100 leds * 60mA each when full white) flowing through it?

    • santaimpersonator / about 4 years ago / 1

      The datasheet from the manufacturer seems to be lacking on that information. However, I don't think that the LEDs will be capable of drawing the amount of current you are estimating (60mA). As you mentioned, the wire looks fairly thin and will most likely act like a "current limiting resistor".

  • WimL / about 4 years ago / 1

    This seems a little short of documentation. How do you control them? The "data sheet" (more of a brochure really) says SPI, but with only one non-power pin, it can't actually be SPI …

    • Hi,

      Yeah, we were wondering about that as well with the datasheet. The datasheet provided by the supplier did not make sense. We tested the LEDs and it uses the WS2812-like protocol. You could use the Neopixel or FastLED library.

  • mgrusin / about 4 years ago / 1

    What addressable LED type are these compatible with?

Customer Reviews

3.6 out of 5

Based on 8 ratings:

Currently viewing all customer reviews.

1 of 1 found this helpful:

Purchased four of these, have not gotten any to work

Purchased 2 units a months or so ago. As mentioned in other reviews, the connectors are reversed from every other light strip I own. This caused me to reverse polarity the power. I then cut off the connectors and resoldered, but I guess the damage was done. After buying 2 more last week, I carefully made new connections but still do not have any active lights. These seem like a good idea and appear suited to a project I would like to build, but currently I have spent over $85 plus tax for no result

Finally got them working

My light strands seemed to be bad. I was using the female side (male pins) that connects to another strip of pins as the input. Was expecting that it didn't matter which side I used to test them. The male side (female pins) needs to be used for the connection to the MCU. The +5v pin is marked in BLUE with my strands on the male connector end. The female connector end is marked in red. I am able to put 2 strands together and they both work. The yellow tag that labels the wires is correct. In my opinion it is labeled on the wrong end as that is the end that connects to another strand, instead of the input end. Using the FastLED library with WS812 GRB configuration. Good luck!

Exactly What I Needed

These lights were exactly what I needed! I had been looking for small yet bright lights for a costume piece and these worked perfectly. I weaved them into a vest and though the rest of the electronics still require additional modifications, these lights did their job splendidly.

Amazing!

Made a "firefly jar" for my deck. All comments regarding which end to use are correct. The sticker comes on the wrong side... Otherwise, an ESP8266 and a level shifter and my fireflies are dancing to the command of my phone!!

Very good and useful

I am working on an art project that will use fairie light strings. I bought one of the Sparkfun strings and am delighted. The markings for polarity were completely wrong, but I figured it out. The literature talks about the red stripe. The tag was on the end with a blue stripe, with the other end having an unlabeled red stripe.. I used the end with the label, and got pin polarity using the blue stripe. I used the Sparkfun Arduino libraries and example programs to begin development. The library and code were a great basis to evolve my work. I quickly developed a small fascinator using the one string I bought. I have designed the installation to use 18 strings, but now Sparkfun is out of stock. I could not find a phone number to discuss when they might be getting more light strings in. Frustrating.

Label is wrong, but great apart from that

As noted by other reviewers, the label on these appears to be on the data-out end, not the data-in end. Once that's sorted out, they work quite nicely.

The wire is stiff enough to (mostly) hold a shape, without being so stiff that it's hard to bend. I'm driving them with a Pixel Blaze, and an thoroughly satisfied with the results.

Absolute Trash

I've been buying from Sparkfun for years and I can't believe they let this garbage out the door. The wires between each LED came with defined kinks as though the strands were tightly folded at some point. While troubleshooting, I noticed one of the LEDs lighting up intermittently and sure enough, it had a broken ground wire right at one of those folded points. These folds have fatigued the wires between every single LED -- making the strands extremely fragile and prone to faulty connections. Now I've got to spend even more money and likely redesign this project for a different set of LED strips with different power requirements. I hope it's not too late to return these.

Edit: Not only was it not too late, but the refund has already been processed! Wow Sparkfun, I knew you wouldn't let me down!

Sorry to hear your experience with this product was not satisfactory there. If you want to create a return ticket we will get you taken care of: https://www.sparkfun.com/returns

Everything is wrong

Everything is wrong and I spent over an hour trying to get them to work.

  • Only one end works as input
  • It's the blue end
  • It's the tag end

(Unlike Sparkfun's documentation which says input is the red end; unlike the tag itself which says input is the red end; and unlike other commenters who say the tag is on the output end.)

So... I guess just try +5V on both colored sides, and see which one works for the string you got. Yay.