Replacement: None. We are no longer carrying this LED breakout in our catalog. This page is for reference only.
This is a simple breakout board of three high-intensity Luxeon Rebel LEDs - one of each red, green and blue.
This breakout board fits both our narrow and wide triple-LED lenses, the drill holes and LED placements fit those lenses perfectly.
Watch out for a mating driver board coming soon!
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Skill Level: Rookie - The number of pins increases, and you will have to determine polarity of components and some of the components might be a bit trickier or close together. You might need solder wick or flux.
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If it requires power, you need to know how much, what all the pins do, and how to hook it up. You may need to reference datasheets, schematics, and know the ins and outs of electronics.
Skill Level: Rookie - You may be required to know a bit more about the component, such as orientation, or how to hook it up, in addition to power requirements. You will need to understand polarized components.
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can i drive these led's using mosfets?
Why did you retire this? Can we still get the eagle files for this?
You can find the eagle files in Luxeon Rebel LED Breakout - White Triple Play . Note that although that product uses white LEDs, the board and schematic are exactly the same (there was also a 'warm white' variant).
I'd like something like this, but with all three blue led's... Does Sparkfun sell that or maybe I could buy just the board and attach the leds myself?
How do I assemble a complete package for this thing? Is it this LED breakout, the driver board, a lens, and a heat sink?
Hey this is probably a stupid question but why should you need a driver board. Is it not possible just to hook wires straight to an ardunio or other micro and do PWM or just high and low?
These LED's consume more power than any microcontroller could output without some amplification. Per the datasheet, typical power consumption is between 350mA to 700mA per LED - compare that to the 10-20mA of a typical LED.
I got this one works with my LED shield. http://neuroelec.wordpress.com/2010/12/02/hello-world/<br />
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It dispense less heat than I thought.
Nice board!
Why do the thermal pads have thermal reliefs?
Seconded. This was asked on the warm white single (https://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9656) but never answered.
All the nice vias there to conduct the heat to the other side are for nought if the heat can't get to them.
I'd like to play around with these but what's the best way to heatsink them?
Check out the heatsink listed in the related products. Also, we have a tutorial that will be up on our site later today.
Might be a stupid question but this does come with the leds as well?
Yes, it does. We try our best to specifically state if it's just the PCB.
Note that the rebel Blue and Royal Blue LEDs are IEC825 class 2 for eye safety.
The Royal Blue in particular will appear to be very dim but can still cause eye damage because most of its output power is in the UV spectrum. The ordinary blue (LXML-PB01-xxxx) is a better choice for lighting applications.
Is it necessary to use a heatsink with these, or would I be able to get away with using as is?
TIA
@Pete-O,
Any updates on the 3-channel driver?
Thanks,
David
Any progress on the driver board?
@Pete-O,
Thanks! That was fast!
I hope the 3-channel driver shows up somewhere nearly as promptly.
While we're waiting for the custom heatsink, can we cool this by attaching general-purpose heatsinks to the through holes surrounding each LED? Note that I would need to do that without interfering with attaching one of the lenses.
Speaking of lenses, which (if either) was used in shooting the photo above?
TIA,
Eric
The drivers... I hassle people every day about those, and I'm pretty sure they're getting tired of that. But we'll get them up as quick as we can.
The heat sinks are in and should be getting pics today (I think), so they should post in the next few days. These will attach with the thermal adhesive pad that we sell (PRT-9771). As for what to do until then...? Anything you put on the back of the board will help. I've used all manner of hunks of metal to do it, and I've done it with heat sink compound and the thermal adhesive. There's also a hole in the middle of this board for bolting on another heat sink of your choice.
The action shot didn't have a lens, but we should have another pic soon of the whole thing put together (lens-board-heat sink).
Pete-O,
Now that we've had a chance to recover from Maker Faire, I'd appreciate an update on the driver boards for these.
TIA,
Eric
The single drivers are getting held up and we're trying to quickly resolve. The triple drivers (for RGB) are in house and getting built soon. I've built the proto and tested.
I have a surplus of non-conductive, non-corrosive, food safe, clear, coolant fluid. I make very well buy a bunch and liquid cool them and mount them on front of my remote control car. Ive been meaning to add lights so I can track it down at night, i mean use the lights as headlights.