RTM. This is a pre-order. Says so in the first line of the description.

you just got them listed and their already out of stock... ill need to check your site more often

This is a really nice little board, but it's killing me that it barely misses your nice project case: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8601. It's just 5-6mm too long. So it looks like I have to break out the joystick/buttons, which is a shame. You could still keep the shield compatibility AND achieve project case compatibility if you trimmed a couple mm off of this thing.

I have created an Arduino library for this JoystickShield. You can find it out at http://sudarmuthu.com/arduino/joystickshield
Try it out and let me know if you have any feedback.

Are there any plans to update this for the R3 layout?

I am using this code for my pan/tilt and it dances all over the place. Any suggestions??

#include  "Servo.h"  
// Store the Arduino pin associated with each input  
const byte PIN_ANALOG_X = 0;  
const byte PIN_ANALOG_Y = 1;  
Servo pan;  
Servo tilt;  
long currentX=0;  
long currentY=0;  
void setup() {  
Serial.begin(9600);
//out pins  
  pan.attach(8);  
  tilt.attach(9);  
}  
void loop() {  
  currentX = map((long)analogRead(PIN_ANALOG_X), 0, 1023, 0, 180);  
  currentY = map((long)analogRead(PIN_ANALOG_Y), 0, 1023, 0, 180);  
  Serial.print("X: ");  
  Serial.print(currentX);  
  Serial.print(", ");  
  Serial.print("Y: ");  
  Serial.print(currentY);  
  Serial.println();  
  pan.write(currentX);  
  tilt.write(currentY);

trying to use the example code for joystickmouse and the joystick shield but it is saying that Mouse is only supported on the leonardo can someone help me and yes i am using the r3 board please reply to this so i get a notification thanks

COULD I USE THIS ALONG with an xbbe and wirelessly control my robot? if so, how?

Try out this project for your joystick shield with processing:shurikenproject
it consists of using the joystick for moving a rotating shuriken on screen!

One on my buttons D3 won't reset after it's pressed. It's 1 until I press it and then it's 0 until I power it down. Ideas?

Silk screen letters are upside down compared to Arduino Uno lettering. Does not affect functionality but it made me look twice. Other than that great board.
-Sam

I assembled my kit in order of component height: buttons, headers, joystick. The assembly instructions were easy to follow. At my son's suggestion, I substituted colored buttons from the Tactile Button Assortment, which gives my thumb some extra surface area to hit. The finished kit makes a great addition to our Arduino goodie box.

I used this with the XBee shield as a remote control for my lil robot:
http://ams-design.com/arduino/2011/09/the-spideruinos-controller/
Hopefully this will be helpful for someone! I know I could have used it ;) Full code provided on that page.
Cheers!
A

OK, we just assembled 200 of these for Gameduino, so here are some tips on assembly.
* do the headers first - they are tricky to get straight. It helps to have another shield that you can put the headers on, then push the joystick board onto the header pins.
* the joystick itself has 13 pins, and they are often bent. Get it roughly in place on the board, then use fine-tip tweezers to get the small pins lined up with their holes before gently pushing it down.

Please add a 3.3v/5v jumper for those of us who don't have 5v analog pins. tia

i want kit retail but its on back order im afraid to get this one that it wont come with all the parts needed

Two of the leads on the joystick are not long enough to poke all the way through the circuit board. I bought an extra joystick because of the written problems I read about in the comments and it looks the same way. How am I supposed to get a solder connection if the leads don't stick out?

Hmmmmm.....what if.....new layout...somewhere for the Atmel goodies on board, room for xbee to program it and communicate to some xbee modules on robot critters, Lipo for power.....the entire package could fit into an altoids can?

Is the prototyping area big enough to fit a second joystick and have enough room to move them without interference?

Would this be compatible with the Thumb Slide Joystick?

I had no problem assembling this, and the layout is nice, but the joystick turned out to be bad. When one axis was moved towards its extreme position the other axis changed value, even though there was no significant movement in the associated potentiometer. I took it apart, and the joystick in one axis directly controls its pot through the a direct connection to the lever, the other axis uses a cage mechanism around the lever that lets the lever slide through in one direction and moved the other pot when moved in the other axis. This cage seems to use the pot as is bearing point and I beleive that vertical movement in the cage is what caused the error. The other issue with the device is that it did not always "electrically reset" to its neutral position (as measuired with a multimeter) when release. I had to tap it or exercise the lever to get it to reset.
My advice it to check out the Joystick using an ohmmeter or equivalent before assembling the kit to make sure it is working properly. I am going to try another one to see if this was a fluke.

Aha! Respect fellas, I was going to suggest more holes. The other thing that is bending my mind is how to box the thing so I can use the thumb stick and have the buttons stick above the fascia of the enclosure. i.e. suitable for a user not a hacker.
And to be picky, extend the prototyping area to the button area, your positioning is probably generally excellent - but why constrain us when we are going to have to solder anyhow.
Just thoughts - thanks for all you do,
Glyn

what is the difference between this ant the retail kit?

just to point out till they update the photos:
the photos currently show the old revision.
the current revision has a prototyping area between the joystick and buttons.
you can already see it on the photos of the retail kit.

Awesome product, I need to get one bad, I got robots in my brain, they need to get out in the real world.

Sorry for the confusion. This is our first go at trying pre-sales.