Replacement:COM-11992. We now carry these buttons not only in red but also in blue, yellow, green, white, and black. Go check them out! This page is for reference only.
It's your basic action button! This is a very useful, small, panel-mount momentary switch. It is a SPST N.O. with 1/4" threading. We don't yet have a datasheet for this part, but it would work best in lower-current applications. Overall length (including leads) is 1.08" and has small solder lugs for connection.
Whether it's for assembling a kit, hacking an enclosure, or creating your own parts; the DIY skill is all about knowing how to use tools and the techniques associated with them.
Skill Level: Noob - Basic assembly is required. You may need to provide your own basic tools like a screwdriver, hammer or scissors. Power tools or custom parts are not required. Instructions will be included and easy to follow. Sewing may be required, but only with included patterns.
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If it requires power, you need to know how much, what all the pins do, and how to hook it up. You may need to reference datasheets, schematics, and know the ins and outs of electronics.
Skill Level: Noob - You don't need to reference a datasheet, but you will need to know basic power requirements.
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I bought these and they're easy to push, but they have to be pressed down all the way for the circuit to close/activate.
What's the thread pitch?
How do I connect this to an Arduino board? I am used to the ones with three pins... and here I see only two...
Easier than the three. one is the input and one is the output. Its like connecting a wire together.. plug one to 3V / 5v and one to an analog or digital read line.
Are there any weather resistant boots for these available?
I have some of these. To my surprise they are normally on, and momentary off. Which makes them pretty useless for my projects. I guess you could wire them up to a micro-controller just fine.
As the product description says, these switches are SPST NO, which means 'Single-pole Single throw normally open.'
Axla seems to imply that the behavior dustinandrews describes is correct but he actually described a normally closed switch momentary contact switch. Which is it really? Normally open or normally closed? In the case of momentary contact switches, the word 'normally' implies the non-activated state.
I'm terribly sorry. I seem to have misread dustinandrews' comment. For some reason, I thought he described his switches as being normally open.
Quick question. I am building a usb development board and the particular piece of code I will be running on it requires that I push and hold down a button to put it into programming mode. Will this button suffice? I've asked people at my local electronics store and they always point me to switches, which will not work for me.
It should, it's just a simple momentary button.
These ones:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062539
I'd say they are pretty similar, if not the same thing.
I've got some of those i bought about 15 years ago at a local dealer, both N/O and N/C versions.
The one on RS picture looks like my N/O versions (plastic inner cylinder of pushbutton) while Sparkfun's one looks like my N/C (metal inner cylinder)
At the time i preferred the N/C that are very sensitive while the N/O needs to have the button pushed on its full course to be on.
I had those stored in unoptimal conditions (humidity), and while the N/O degraded (needs some force to close the circuit and huge contact resistance varying with push-force), i was surprised to find the N/C kept all their binary and responsive touch, maybe N/C contact are somewhat more moisture-resistant.
How sturdy are these things?
How reliable are the contacts?
I'm looking into replacing some crappy radioshack switches in a project.
Not knowing which buttons you are currently using, I can't really give a comparison. But these definitely are sturdier than some of the other buttons we sell and should hold up a little longer.
These buttons are horrible. You have to push hard and jiggle them about to make contact. Plus they get stuck easily because the disk that makes contact with the two terminals catches on the barrel (the black bit in the picture).