So these boards are NOT arduino pin compatible? 5V on the 3.3V pin is BAD. Personally I think it would have been better to leave that pin disconnected. As it is, I'll just pop the pin out of the header before I solder it.

We recommend running the board with a LiPo battery for better portability.

But the minimum input voltage is 5V. LiPo's are 4.1V at the very best. So how does the board work when switched to BATT mode, exactly?

It took me a minute or two to figure out the buzzer so I posted a quick write up at TechSpin/Arduino Pro Buzzer.

It seems the buzzer can be mounted either end up. I happened to mount mine with the words up and positive terminal down. Positive terminal connected to D4 and negative terminal connected to D5. With this configuration playing a tone on the buzzer is as simple as:

void setup() 
{
  pinMode(5,OUTPUT);
  tone(4, 1000, 1000);
}

void loop()  {  }

Modifying the Arduino toneMelody example is as simple as adding a line and modifying two lines:

 #include "pitches.h"

// notes in the melody:
int melody[] = { NOTE_C4, NOTE_G3,NOTE_G3, NOTE_A3, NOTE_G3,0, NOTE_B3, NOTE_C4};

// note durations: 4 = quarter note, 8 = eighth note, etc.:
int noteDurations[] = { 4, 8, 8, 4,4,4,4,4 };

void setup() {

pinMode(5,OUTPUT); // <-- add this line

// iterate over the notes of the melody:
for (int thisNote = 0; thisNote < 8; thisNote++) {

// to calculate the note duration, take one second 
// divided by the note type.
//e.g. quarter note = 1000 / 4, eighth note = 1000/8, etc.
int noteDuration = 1000/noteDurations[thisNote];

tone(4, melody[thisNote],noteDuration); // <-- edit this line

// to distinguish the notes, set a minimum time between them.
// the note's duration + 30% seems to work well:
int pauseBetweenNotes = noteDuration * 1.30;
delay(pauseBetweenNotes);
// stop the tone playing:

  noTone(4); // <-- edit this line

}
}

void loop() {  // no need to repeat the melody.
}

Does this board shut down with low voltage, in order to protect a lipo battery from complete discharge?

For anyone trying to program one of these with avrdude, the bootloader on mine had an unexpected baud rate needed for programming. If you're having trouble, try using 57600 baud.

There's even a nice Buzzer in the middle of the board, at least in the eagle file :-) EDIT: Well there's a buzzer really... Still don't know why but there is one for this Pro version.

Just purchased 5x of these for cost reduction build of a specialty "tester box" I'm working on. The last 3 units I made used an Arduino Uno R3. I've run into a snag on this build since switching to the Arduino Pro's. First off, there's the pin difference between Uno R3, which is easily resolved since I don't need those extra pins on the Uno. I just cut them off my mating shields. However, the case I am using is setup (like most cases these days) for an Arduino Uno R3. The Pro is just a tad shorter in one dimension so I can't mount it properly.

Question: Has there been any thought to making an updated version of this lower cost Pro board that has pin and dimensional compatibility with the Arduino Uno R3? Most shields and enclosures these days are designed for the Uno. Thanks!

I have a question about powering the Arduino Pro. Is it okay to have external power and the FTDI Basic connected to the board at the same time? On the Uno board there is a circuit that switches the power to the external power if it is present. Looking at the Arduino Pro schematic I didn't see such a circuit, but I may have over looked it. I think that there have been times that I have had both connected in the past, without a problem, I am wondering if I have just been lucky so far and I should avoid doing it?

What's the benefit of this board over the Pro Mini? The Pro Minis are still using the 328. I looked up a few of the specs and they were pretty much identical.

I thought you said backorders were allowed "There is a limit of two units for each product (per order) and back-orders are allowed" I wanted two of the 5Vs and one of the red boards but the sight wouldn't ler me saying backorders are not allowed.

Wanted to buy one on sale, but guess what. No backorders available (unlike promised in e-mail) and sold out while fighting the damn credit card system so had to remove it then they sold out of another card I wanted. if something goes on sale, at least have enough on stock. SOld out in 3 minutes

I like Pro boards, but I sometime miss the 3v3 pins next to the 5v pin for my shield compatibility issues.
If you have chance, please consider to change PCB 5V pattern routing going from FTDI con, as firstly 5V pin then to another VCC pin assingnd to 3v3 on UNOs. It may make easy to cut the 5V pattern and attach a 3v3 regulator on the bottom.

We need a Arduino Pro Mega 2560 board who looks similar like this one !

The free white circle, near the middle ?

These are great I have used 20 so far and just ordered 20 more. These have been extremely stable and reliable so far. In my application runs off 14 volts, so I use a voltage regulator to knock the voltage down to approx 7 volts to power the Pro. The project is completely enclosed and no problems so far. I'm driving a 16X2 LCD display with backlight and 5 LEDs. I notice they are running low, I hope they get more soon.

What is the Advantage of having a 16Mhz bootloader? How do I specify TX-1/RX-0 of the FTDI pins in my sketch? I'm currently working using D0 and D1 for TX/RX, but not with the FTDI TX/RX. Any help?

Can I use an Arduino Leonardo to programming this Arduino Pro ? I saw somewhere that I have to remove the ATmega chip to programming an Arduino Pro with another Arduino ans it's quite difficult with a Leonardo ...

I'm working on a project with the Arduino Pro that runs on solar and I want to keep the power needs as low as possible. Is the best way to power the pro by connecting the output of a 5V switching regulator to the 5V and Ground pins on 6 pin header (where you normally connect the FTDI cable). Is there a 500 ma current limit via that connection ?

The Pro is such a nice board to use! I used to always use my Mega 2560, but Pros are a lot cheaper to replace, and a 4xAA battery pack is just about the same size and the Pro can run off of 6 volts! Nice job Sparkfun!

If you add a DC power jack to this board then it makes it very difficult to fit the FTDI basic breakout board between the DC jack and the JST connector. I had to file down the JST slightly in order to get my FTDI breakout board to fit in between. Please consider increasing the space between the DC jack and the JST for the next batch of PCBs.

great.

Interesting - I had to replace the series resistors with 0 ohm on the TX/RX to get 115200 ... R1 and R3.

Worked great on the UNO smd and Rev 2 I have...