After some research on Digikey and Mouser using the 10uF, 3216, 16V, +10/-10% ratings and the black case with 'C106' marking, I'm going to venture a guess that these are Nichion F931C106KAA capacitors (here on Digikey). The datasheet is here, the most important specs not quoted above are:

• Leakage Current: 1.6 μA
• ESR@100kHz: 3 Ω

That 6% dissipation factor seems a little low for typical tantalums. (Perhaps they're at a derated voltage?) I honestly don't know why they give the ESR at 100kHz rather than a frequency graph. For comparison's sake, I grabbed a graph from a higher-quality Vishay part (with a better datasheet). Here's the ESR curve:

which shows that this tantalum has an ESR of about 1 Ω between 100 kHz and 50 MHz.

For a comparison to alternative technologies, I picked this ceramic (part datasheet, series datasheet). It offers:

• Leakage Current: 0.19 μA at 8V
• ESR:@100kHz: 0.01 Ω

And here's the ESR curve:

That's 10x better leakage current and 100x lower ESR, not to mention the lower cost! Similar parts are also available in 0805 (metric 2012) packaging, which requires less than half the board area.

Plus, as Whosawhatsis and langwadt opined, ceramics are simply a joy to work with compared to tantalums.

• They don't need to be heavily derated just to keep working
• They are easier to solder (the whole end is plated instead of these tiny J-leads)
• They're not as moisture and temperature sensitive
• They're nonpolarized: reverse voltage or current can destroy a tantalum, ceramics don't care
• They both fail as short circuits, but tantalums contain materials which catch fire while ceramics don't. You should have a fuse or PTC, but the thought of flames is still scary.

Ten years ago, if you needed a small 10uF tank/decoupling capacitor, it had to be tantalum. Recent advances in ceramic technology have thoroughly changed the landscape. The overwhelming majority of projects will be better served with ceramic (or electrolytic for larger capacitances). There are a few places in which tantalum still makes sense.

The FTDI breakout board, which uses this tantalum part, is not one of those places. Your project is probably not one of those places.

Since they didn't mention it, these are tantalum capacitors. The end with the stripe (usually) is the positive side. Also, they must be derated for safety; I wouldn't use a 16V tantalum above 8-12V

Nice idea, but sadly, if I need things in bulk like this I would just go to digikey so I can get SMD ICs and stuff as well. Nothing against you guys, but just pointing it out.