High quality switching 'wall wart' AC to DC 9V 650mA wall power supply manufactured specifically for Spark Fun Electronics. These are switch mode power supplies which mean the output is regulated to 9V (no more 14V outputs!) and the capable output current is much higher (650mA!).
These will power most projects that don't require more than 650mA of current. Center-positive 5.5x2.1mm barrel connector.
Works with 100-240VAC inputs.
Check out our Unregulated Power Supply Tutorial
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Based on 12 ratings:
2 of 2 found this helpful:
Shipped fast and works great!
2 of 2 found this helpful:
I have a 9 and 12 volt version of these , both work excellent with decent cord length. Ive been playing with lm386 amps and these make excellent power sources
2 of 2 found this helpful:
I just powered up 160 Arduinos with these power supplies with no issues!
1 of 1 found this helpful:
It helped me in my projects,
1 of 1 found this helpful:
I have been purchasing these for a couple of years now to use on some of my production run product. I know I have purchased at least a couple hundred. I have never had one come back from the field with a problem other than someone inflicting damage to the cord. Good product at a reasonable cost. Thanks!
Bought this to power up a small breadboard for my Arduino work.. Built the kit, plugged this and voila, lights and power. Thanks.
By providing power from the wall in the specified manner
With all the wacky cheapo sub-par products out there. This adapter is consistant. Greenbacks well spent. Last thing i want to do is stick a outboard regulator to something thats supose to do its job inthe first place
Compact, suitable for all small projects that requires 9V and low current. Good quality product.
Works great and is relatively compact. Could be improved by offering a version with the orientation of the plug rotated 90° also the LED is very bright, a dimmer indicator would be sufficient, or possibly no LED at all.
Does this work with Arduino 2009 or fries it?
Are the "guts" available just as a circuit board (populated), preferably with some mounting holes? If not, suggestions on where to buy something similar, or maybe make the schematic available? I'd like to use it as part of an embedded system.
Be careful with what outlets you plug it into. The prongs can be pulled out if the outlet applies too much pressure. The retail version I purchased from Micro Center last weekend ended up this way.
Ditto, and the metal pin was left in the socket. One of the few times I've intentionally had to test the insulation on my pliers.
Yep, mine did the same thing. Except mine actually cracked the whole faceplate in a couple places as well.
Reattached the prong, and still had to throw away adapter... put out 9V and seemed to short whenever a load was applied lol.
Still, the price is pretty hard to beat..
European plug please!!!
Just bought the "new" version of this and it died in a little over 3 months. When I say died I mean that it turned into a sine wave generator peaking at ~14V.
If possible, ship with order 957252
I bought it, and finally tested it. Found out the unit is cracked. The screw isn't holding it together, but it just lightly is snapped in. Won't buy this anymore. The one from Amazon was same price, no issues!
These make the best guitar pedal adapters! They take up one plug slot (very convenient) and they put out very clean voltage. If you play electric guitar I would recommend to buy a handful of these. Before you use them, remember to reverse the wires because you need negative tip with pedals. It takes 5 minutes to remove the cover and switch the wires, then you are good to go.
Is it possible to order this with a longer cord? The length works for what I need sometimes, but I could use a couple extra feet for some of the powered chairs I use these on.
Solder on some dual conductor stranded wire between the connector and the cord, observing polarity :).
Man, I love you guys at Sparkfun. I really love the Phillips head screw and easy access tabs! It's also great that you don't squirt these things full of silicone or glue or whatever crap most have in them.
After a 3.3V voltage regulator, can I safely run this at a higher current? Say at 1A?
Depending on the regulator: if it is a linear regulator (and it probably is) then no, the maximum output would be about 650mA. What a linear regulator does if to act as a series resistor, dropping 9-3.3V which equals 5.7V as heat. You might have used a resistor to drop the voltage going into an LED, tis works almost the same.
The difference between a regulator and a resistor, in this aspect, is that a regulator knows the current flowing and adjusts itself to compensate the difference. So basically is behaves like a smart resistor that adjusts it's resistance based on the current flowing through it.
What is the configuration of the barrel connector? polarity/hot/etc? Is there a manual or schematic blow up?
It Says Center-positive 5.5x2.1mm barrel connector
The product description says "Center-positive 5.5x2.1mm barrel connector."
Could I use this to power an Arduino?
Supposedly in the Quick Start Tutorial, It says that it'll work with the Arduino Uno down in the Full Bio section
This is not UL listed or CSA approved. Might be important if you need something that is.
Does anyone know where I can find a safety-certified version of a 9V >500mA adapter?
I usually make it a rule to only leave an adapter plugged in unattended (to charge a battery or power something that I want to keep on) if it is UL listed.
15W 9V Adaptor
Claims to be UL and cUL approved. Not sure about CSA.
And by three 'pins' I meant "prongs" ... you know, the ones that go in the wall socket. Connect negative to ground, so your arduino gets a true ground instead of a floating one.
If you could make one that has three pins, so the negative output is connected to ground, that would be awesome. Right now I'm having issues with some sensors because I don't have a true ground on my arduino... Of course I discovered these problems only when I disconnect USB (which has true ground, through my laptop power supply) and connect this power adapter.
Try a 10K pull-down resistor to ground, might help stabilize the sensors by blocking some of the floaty-ness. :)
That seems strange that your project isn't working with a floating ground. What kind of sensors are you using?
If you really need a true ground, just connect a ground pin on your Arduino to ground directly. You don't need the power supply to do it for you.
Does this plug work in Europe? The pins look different from what I'm used to.
Yes it does (works at 220V), but you'll need a plug adaptor to fit your sockets.