Member Since: September 28, 2009
Country: United States
update: I'm not sure if I got a defect one or what but I've managed to get mine working again. I used a pair of scissors to cut right down to the blue line, almost to where the two sensor traces intersect. I then put a piece of eletrical tape on one side to prevent the V+ from jumping to GND.
Success!
I figured this out also. Except I had read your comment first and had a 1k but was looking to get as close to zero on the read when its floating. Mine kept steadily slowly rolled away from 300 to approx 100-150. So put in a 100 ohm. The problem occurred when my finger crossed over the blue divider line there are two burn marks on either side of it now. I tried plugging it back it but it started heating up again. Apparently this isn't enough to stop it from frying. Lesson learned.
Just finished building the amp about an hour ago. Sounds great. I bought some in wall speakers from monoprice and they sound awesome. Very loud. I'm using an acer laptop power supply.
Any chance of making one about the same size as that softpot? I'll probably make one by scratch in the next few weeks. I want to use the softpot as a volume control but I want it to light up to show the level.
You'll most likely throw off the gain from the preamp. Not saying it couldn't work, It just might not sound as well as you want it to. I didn't actually work out any equations so I don't know where the operating range changes to. You're on the right track. You might just want to add a separate pre-stage for mixing down two sources. Just connnect the output of this to the input of the amplifier kit.
Something like this. -> http://static.electro-tech-online.com/imgcache/6282-opamp-adder.gif
Not sure how much you know about op amps but this may help. -> http://www.facstaff.bucknell.edu/mastascu/elessonshtml/OpAmps/OpAmp3.html
I tried designing a mixer in college for a lab project. I soldered everything and ended up frying several op amps because I didn't look for extra traces. Lesson learned.
If you look at the STA540 poweramp datasheet they show a way to implement a mute function. On page 20 section 6.10. You could add it if you wanted too. But maybe in the next revision it will get added.
Could you update the photos? I know in the description it says that it now has a micro-sd card slot but these show no storage at all.
Just a thought.
For those having problems try this. With the pins at the top pin 1 is next to the edge. I'm using an Arduino ATMega 328 mini pro.
using the example Hello World arduino sketch.
PIN1 = tie to gnd
2 = tie to 5v
3 = resistor ~2-3K to gnd
4 = rs = tie to pin 12 on arduino
5 = r/w = tie to gnd
6 = enable = tie to pin 11 on arduino
7-10 = open (no connections)
11 = tie to pin 5 on arduino
12 = tie to pin 4 on arduino
13 = tie to pin 3 on arduino
14 = tie to pin 2 on arduino
15 = tie to 4.2 V (5V is working for me right now)
16 = tie to gnd
using this with an arduino will work
Ordered mine a week ago and finally got around to playing with it. I used the included LiquidCrystal.h for Arduino to run this thing. Very easy to use once you get it up and running. To get the contrast working I used a 3.3Kohm resistor going to ground, looks amazing. Not quite as bright as picture but I think I'm close. 2.2Kohm is too washed out and 6.8 Kohm nothing shows up. I can't believe how much easier this is compared to the 68HC12. Uhhh, I'm going to have nightmares for the rest of my life.
I had trouble with this for a little bit so I'm posting it if others want to know.
The S0-S3 act as an address so if you're measuring multiple inputs coming from the C0-C15 side you set S0-S3 to that binary pin # and read it on the SIG pin. I had assumed that a 1 on say C8 would generate a 1000 on the S lines. In this instance you have to set S to 1000 and then the value reads in on SIG.
Just for anyones info if they were having problems like I was. I didn't quite understand that from the data sheet.
No public wish lists :(